Maniacal Prozac Bottle Toy

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Back in the shop for the last time for this class, I set up the 4 Axis to make the final pieces only this time I edited the support height and width to be bigger in order to cut down my milling time.

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I got it down to 3 hours of roughing and half an hour of finishing,

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and made sure not to tighten the bolt too much like I did with my previous piece that ended up with lines all over the top of the face.

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While the delrin was being milled I got out the vinyl cutter to make the eyes.

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I sketched out a few eyes with the paintbrush tool and proceeded to watch instructional videos about how to set up the cutter properly.

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Then, after exporting the file in the proper format I opened up Silhouette Studio and imported my file.

Everything looked ok to go…or so I thought.

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But what came out was a mess and I struggled to figure out how to outline the lines I had drawn in Illustrator.

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The paper wasn’t being fed correctly through the cutter but I couldn’t figure out how to move the chassis so that it could feed it straight through. Unfortunately, I just had to give up and rely on printing the eyes at home due to time constraints.

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While the rest of the delrin was milling I played around with how I wanted the sticker to look. Creating slits on the side and cutting different parts out from the original print to place them dilligently on the toy’s face.

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I didn’t want to cover up all the work I had done on the mouth so cutting the sticker in half lengthwise seemed to make sense.

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Once I had the three remaining white pieces I dyed them using the same technique as the first one and for the same amount of time to ensure the color would match.

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They came out nicely.

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I took the Illustrator file I tried cutting with and printed it out on printable vinyl sticker.

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The eyes needed to be a little bigger to hide the puckering underneath from putting a flat sticker on a curved surface.

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And after printing out several labels, I had a lot of cutting to do. But first, I wanted to spray paint the inside of each mouth flat black.

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This was a scary process because there was no room for error and I had spent the last 10 minutes scouring google for tips on how to apply paint to delrin. Not a lot of people had luck with spray paint and this freaked me out.

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It took a long, long time to place tape all around the mouth correctly.

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Getting the angles required putting tiny pieces of the flat edge of the tape along the mouth and pressing hard to ensure no paint would seep through.

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I was very happy to be done with that part, but nervous to begin spray painting!

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At first, I did one at a time — mostly out of fear of something going wrong.

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But after the first round dried I got more comfortable with the process and added two pieces at once.

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And eventually four at a time.

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The result was pretty good but I was cautious about taking the tape off, not to rip some of the paint off with it.

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Despite my careful taping, some of the paint got on the lips of the piece.

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But it was surprisingly easy to take off with my fingernail, which kindof worried me about the paintjob lasting a long time.

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I wanted a crisp, to the point sticker to put on the bottle head, and cutting a circle proved to be very challanging.

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Made a tongue too to try and lighten up the mouth a little, and then I used Gorilla Glue 5 minute epoxy to secure the caps on the body and let it dry for an hour to be safe.

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To my dismay, the epoxy did not hold at all so I had to rush to find whatever I had at home to put the two pieces together securely enough.

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I found some heavy duty 3M double sided thick tape and doubled up on it and stuck ’em on and it kindof gave the effect of having the bottle closed but the child’s lock preventing you from opening it.

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In conclusion, I really solidified my work flow on the 4 axis making these toys and my VectorWorks skills increased as well. While I don’t enjoy cutting or printing stickers at all, creating the Illustrator files was fun and I’m now more comfortable using Photoshop too. I don’t think I’ll ever want to peel another sticker again in my life, and I wish I had tiny scissors at home instead of the kitchen ones I used to cut everything with. If I had more time in this class, I would have loved to make 3D printed pills with faces on them to either put inside the mouth of each toy or find a way of putting them under the cap, sticking out. Clearly, I would have liked to find a different way of incorporating a sticker into my design that didn’t require dealing with puckering but I’m glad I used the stickers in the end because I worked hard on them.

Packaging Design & 2nd Print

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I searched my neighborhood far and wide for the right kind of packaging I wanted. Specifically, I was looking for a slim white bag with minimal logo’s so I could easily cover it up with a vinyl sticker.

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Then, using Illustrator and a free Walgreens font, I created a simple sticker design.

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But realized an oval shape wasn’t going to cover the existing logo completely.

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So I took the oval away and made it very simple and it turned out clean.

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I printed a very small version for the top of the bottle as well and got back into the shop to make the 2nd bottle.

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Unfortunately, I tightened the delrin too hard on the 4 Axis and it resulted in the front of the bottle having ripples.

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Back at home I started playing around with sticker placement after printing out a few more labels.

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I think I definitely need to darken the mouth and I may want to tuck the sticker inside of the mouth first to emphasise the shape.

First Finished Product – Mel N. Colly

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I decided to go with Delrin for the final product because I wanted to revisit the 4-Axis machine and because I wasn’t very happy with the quality a 3D print puts out. So, starting with a 3″ by 6″ piece of white delrin, I took the first VectorWorks CAD model I created because the mouth was bigger and the bend in the bottle shape was more what I was looking for.

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In Roland I added supports and made the size bigger to avoid a long milling time.

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I had to position one of them so that it wouldn’t cut into the bottom angle of the piece, making it hard to sand it down.

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In preview mode it looked good to go so I started the process. 3.1 hrs.

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Made a center hole.

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And loaded the Delrin,

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Set the X axis.

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And the Y at the center of rotation,

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And started milling.

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I forgot how much the 4 axis spits out on the first go.

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Roughing took a majority of the time.

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Finishing only took about 20 minutes.

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Once it was done it took roughly 4 hours and I was happy with the results.

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Even though the mouth couldn’t cut a thin agle at the corners, the gradient it created sort of looked like the inside cheeks of a dogs mouth and I was fine with it.

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I chopped off the supports on the band saw and got out my multiple grades of sandpaper to smooth it down.

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Then it was dye time. Using Jacquard Fabric Dye (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O5QKG8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and a cheap pot and strainer, I brought a pot of water to a boiling point.

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Then, added the color intensifier and stirred thoroughly.

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Then the color packet.

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Stirring until thoroughly combined.

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It was the weirdest smelling sauce I ever made.

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Plopped the milled Delrin into the boiling dye keeping it from hitting the bottom of the pot with a strainer.

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Set a timer for 30 minutes and stirred frequently.

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After half an hour I took out the piece and washed it under warm water.

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The result was pretty orange but not as orange as I wanted.

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It wasn’t very sturdy on the table so I sanded it down a little more,

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so that I could get rid of the tiny bulge at the bottom that was preventing it from sitting up straight.

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Back in the pot, to a boiling point for half an hour more.

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Every now and then I needed to add water to the pot to maintain coverage of the Delrin.

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Half an hour more proved to be a great idea.

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I got a nice Nickelodeon orange and the cap from a real pill bottle fit perfectly.

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Then it was time to print out the sticker label I created in Photoshop.

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Borrowing many pieces from a real Walgreen’s label,

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the sticker printed with low ink, unfortunately, and smudged easily the first time around.

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So I printed another one with different printer settings and with the absence of color ink the print out needed to be dried and probably wasn’t going to get much better than this without more ink, different settings or a divergent approach.

I have to wait until the morning for it to dry.

Upon further thought, I want to explore transfer stickers because I’m worried about how I’m going to create an attractive bend in the vinyl sticker over the mouth to create teeth. I also don’t know if it needs teeth. It may be torn strategically at the mouth.

 

……

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An hour later I took another look at the printed stickers and tried peeling it off only to realize I had printed on the wrong side!

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So I printed out a sticker and cut out a mouth,

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and even though I had low ink, it printed pretty well and got a good idea of where I want to go from here.

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POSSIBLE UPDATES / ADDITIONS

      • Add pills to the base
      • Sturdy the base with aluminum
      • Add cut stickers as eyes
      • Modify two models to lean back better
      • Buff models to glossy shine
      • Add lips and creases to the VectorWorks model to ennunciate emotion
      • Alter sticker mouth to include happy and side mouth curves
      • Cut cartoonish tongue stickers
      • I’m curious about this process but I feel like I’ll screw it up

Edison Lamp Station

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My initial idea for a lamp included a light switch, a rubber mat to rest your phone on, a metal post for sunglasses, and a pocketed area for change.

Once I started drafting this idea in Vectorworks, and became aware of the size limitations of the 4-Axis, I realized I needed to rework my idea. I knew I wanted something functional for my bedside table, and I wanted to incorporate my skill builder into my final. (For the skill builder I made a small charging dock for an iPhone.)

Vectorworks prototypes:

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Once the cherry wood arrived in the mail it became easier to see the dimensions of everything I wanted to mill.

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Because I wanted to maximize the amount of wood I could use I needed to add tabs in Vectorworks to allow the machine to take off the minimal amount on the front and back. This also prompted me to create a third roughing and finishing tool path to ensure the front and back would be milled.

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Unfortunately, the drill bit was not as long as I needed it to be and at one point the callet, collet, caullet however you spell that, ran into the chuck. Oops!

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After restarting the machine due to that error, I was pleased to find I could restart the job without losing all my axies! I edited the tool paths to not mill on either side of the piece.

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Thankfully, the bit was just long enough to be able to mill down to the center on each side.

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Once the 4-Axis started milling the back I saw that the bit wasn’t in fact long enough make the hole for the charger.

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I was a little baffled as to why the machine left such rough lines on the front near the back, but I thought the final tool path would correct that.

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It didn’t unfortunately.

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It left some pretty nasty grooves on the top.

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I thought that maybe if I ran the last finishing step one more time it would get rid of the grooves on the surface.

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So I deleted all the other paths and highlighted the top of the surface where I wanted the machine to mill.

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After milling air for half an hour it finally started to smooth out where I wanted it to.

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But to my dismay, it didn’t smooth it all that much.

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After taking it off the 4-Axis and cutting off the extra wood on the sides using the bandsaw, I was left with some sanding to do. But first I wanted to drill a hole where the bit didn’t go through.

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Hastily, and after 7 hours milling, I slightly damaged the wood around the hole which was frustrating.

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I tried the drill press but it didn’t do any good, so I started filing the area down to make the hole big enough to fit a charger cable.

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Then I got to sanding the sides using a miter guide which made it easy to create an even surface area.

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The finished result looked great!

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Then it was time to discuss how to fit the lamp parts into everything before I lathed the remaining cherry wood bits.

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Ben suggested making a small lamp post and affixing it on the lathe with the chuck and then using the drill to create a hole large enough to fit the guided nipple post — is that what it’s called?

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The cherry wood pieces.

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The failed drill press attempt.

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The cherry wood prepared for lathing.

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I needed to make a .7 diameter, 1/4″ deep part at the bottom of my lamp post in order to securely glue it into the 4-axis part.

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Once I had the correct size for that part I started shaping the rounded wood.

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Using three grits of sandpaper, I sanded it until it was really smooth.

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And used the drill to easily make a centered hole through the middle.

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After band-sawing off the ends, it was ready to be glued!

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Tightly clamped.

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Now it’s time to wait 8 hours.

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Since I had all this time on my hands to wait, I wanted to utilize one more machine, the Othermill.

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Out of aluminum, I wanted to make a lightning bolt.

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It took me a while to remember that the illustrator file had to be filled in in order to show up in Bantam. While the Othermill was doing it’s job I realized a crucial mistake.

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My charger cable wouldn’t fit!

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So I stared at it for a long time thinking of what I could do to remedy the situation.

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Every now and then glancing over and stopping the milling process to vacuum up the pieces!

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Thankfully Ben had a solution for me. And we carefully drilled a round hole in the bottom so I could thread the cable through.

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The lightning bolt came out nicely, and just required a little scraping off the ends to make it smooth.

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Ben was also kind enough to teach me how to properly wire the lamp so I wouldn’t die turning it on.

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Although the two marked areas in red would be rounded, I think the bolt came out nicely.

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The original Illustrator file without it being properly filled in.

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I realized something wonky that took me a while to sort out when subtracting pieces from the main block in Vectorworks. I needed to use the arrows to have the part I wanted subtracted to be highlighted in yellow and the rest to be highlighted in red or else everything around it would be subtracted.

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What it shouldn’t look like, but what it defaulted to.

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The error I got when improperly trying to subtract the whole shape from the tiny part.

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After waxing on the lathe and by hand in the pocketed areas.

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Felt on the bottom.

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And it’s done!

4 Axis Maple iPhone Dock

A first go on the 4 axis proved to be a very long one where most of the work is done on the design. Unlike the lathe or even parts of using the big CNC, this machine really does everything pretty much on it’s own with little vacuuming required once start is pressed. None-the-less it’s pretty satisfying to hold a 3D figure of something you made in Vectorworks out of a solid block of hard wood.

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Wireframe view of model.

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Isometric view of back.

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Wireframe isometric view. (Showing a future mistake that will be made.)

 

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Top view.

And so,

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taking a block of maple left over from the turning exercise,

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I measured all the sides with a center finder

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and generally marked where the wood would be cut.

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Drilled a hole with a center hole bit for the lathe end of the 4 axis.

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Placing the wood in the shuck (shank?) (chuck?)

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and tightened the lathe end.

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The 3D model in SRP Player.

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Added tabs to the model after finalizing the Vectorworks file.

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The process beginning – 2.4 hours.

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The Axis.

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Half an hour or so into the process.

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4 axis

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An axis turned once to the right.

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Roughing process.

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Finishing process.

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Finished process.

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Taken off the machine there is clearly no hole going through the wood to allow for a charging cable.

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Left over pieces and cut and un-sanded, un drilled through result.

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Sanded down back view.

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Sanded side view. The cut of the saw made a great design in the wood.

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Since I didn’t have a hole I made my own. But realized using such a thin bit wasn’t a great idea on the drill press. It was bending but didn’t break so I switched to a bigger one and that things a little messy.

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The unfortunate hole on the bottom.

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Back view.

I really appreciate what a rounded bit can do to a piece of wood’s surface. It makes for a smooth effect — at least that’s what I got out of this maple.

Next time I need to remember to make my shapes overlap a bit in my Vectorworks files. I also need to utilize the option of changing the bit mid process so I can achieve not only a beautiful surface and rounded corners, but sharp edges and cut through pieces. Although I made a bit of a sloppy mess of the hole with the wobbly drill press after it all, I certainly learned what I needed to know going into the final now.
………..

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….And while I was at it I brought out my lathe turned honey dipper to cut and sand the ends off while I refined the ends of the dock.

Finals Brainstorm

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Using a block of wood, I’d like to make an USB Charging Edison Lamp with a Catch-All.

Below are some examples of what some of the components would look like:

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Itemized materials list:

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Block of Wood
(Cherry seems like a nice choice)

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Lightbulb Socket

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Edison Bulbs (long and regular) (already purchased)

The difficult part is finding a usb charging port that has a plug for the light socket that is spaced enough so that I can only show the two usb ports (like the second sketch I drew).

I could possibly use something like this:

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Or this:

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Or I could use a hub but that would probably require a lot of wiring space inside of the wood.

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Dimmer Switch (I would make a knob on the small CNC for it)

Depending on how I go about wiring things, and whether or not I’ll have a dimmer there are a few options for power cords:

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I could also just have the dimmer directly on the socket, but then I’m not sure how to wire up the usb cable.

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I could potentially use a simple extension cord if I wanted to use a USB hub mounted on the inside of the box…which makes me now think that I shouldn’t be using a solid piece of wood to make this out of!

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